London Shell Co.

Friday May 31st, 2024
Rating: 4.5
by Derick Rethans

We walked the last mile to the restaurant on a lovely, warm spring evening. It is situated on the east side of Hampstead Heath, not far from Highgate Cemetery. Nearby are several independent shops.

As the evening was warm and sunny, many people sat outside, but we sat inside, on one side of the little restaurant. On the other side, there was a fish counter with fresh-looking fish and seafood. The back wall had a rack full of bottles of wine to have in or take out. A fridge next to it was for the white and sparkling wines to have in. The atmosphere was very relaxed.

The menu was a blackboard, with numerous tasty-sounding dishes in three different sections: cold plates, hot plates, and sides/desserts. Although nearly all the dishes sounded delicious, we each chose a dressed and undressed oyster to start our meal. But not after we had perused the wines on offer—we selected a Greek Savatiano.

The dressed oyster had a slightly spicy sauce with a nice burn that did not overpower the oyster's flavour. The undressed oyster was fresh and enhanced with a few drops of lemon juice.

After our starters, our mains arrived. My wife had picked a ray wing dressed with salty caper butter, and I had selected the whole plaice with lobster sauce. The lobster sauce alone was to die for—lovely, sweet chunks of lobster meat with a powerful tomato undertone. It went very well with my perfectly cooked fish. The other dishes coming from the kitchen also looked enticing. On the side, we shared some new potatoes.

We don't usually have three courses — two is plenty — but it was a lovely spring evening, and a dessert seemed appropriate. My wife had a slice of a traditional British custard tart topped with a little nutmeg, whereas I had opted for the fresh strawberries served with white chocolate cream. Although white chocolate can be cloying sweet, this wasn't, and therefore a delicious final to our meal whilst sipping an accompanying dessert wine: A nice relaxed meal with fabulous fishy food.

Four oysters on a place with ice, with a slice of lemon.
Four oysters on a place with ice, with a slice of lemon.
A whole plaice with lobster sauce.
A whole plaice with lobster sauce.
New potatoes in butter.
New potatoes in butter.
A ray wing covered in butters with capers in it.
A ray wing covered in butters with capers in it.
Classic custard tart slice.
Classic custard tart slice.
Strawberries in white chocolate creak, with crunchy bits.
Strawberries in white chocolate creak, with crunchy bits.
Unit 4 Sonny Heights, Swain's Lane, London N6 6AG, United Kingdom
Starters: £17; Mains: £60; Dessert: £15; Drinks £51