Lita

Friday June 7th, 2024
Rating: 2
by Derick Rethans

Following the lead of a better-known, piano-playing food critic, we visited Lita, a new restaurant in Marylebone, on a nice spring evening. We didn't want to sit outside with the smokers, so we chose to sit inside. What we hadn't expected was to be sat right in a corner in the back—the darkest (and most humid) spot in the restaurant.

With the menu came a spiel of: "We recommend a starter each, and then two or three of the small plates, and then one or two from the big plates. The small plates are just little bites." — I am paraphrasing here, but you get the gist. Without looking at the menu, we already thought that, taking the advice would mean we would end up with way too much food — we've been in similar situations before. Seeing the price of each of these "small" and "big" dishes were, also put us right off. Ultimately, we can always order another dish.

Instead, we opted for a more reasonable selection, at least in our opinion. We started with wild-farmed sourdough, with cultured butter, and smoked Basque sardines with a cherry sauce. I have no idea what wild-farmed sourdough is, nor cultured butter; but it was nice bread with some good butter. The sardines were nicely cured, and the cherries added an enjoyable sweet tang. It wasn't a lot of chow though.

As our intermezzo dish we chose their salad of Provencal asparagus, peas, and broad beans, served with a poached Braddock Whites duck egg. A light and refreshing dish, with the white and green asparagus having just the right amount of crunch.

And finally, as our main we picked the poussin, which was served with an apricot jus. On the side we had a basic green leaf salad. The poussin was perfectly cooked, and easily came off the bone. I've never had chicken and apricot, but thought the combination worked really well. The salad was, well, salad. Flopped out of the bag and dressed with a fairly basic oil and vinegar dressing. Being critical the leaves were too large to eat in a mouthful, so a bit of light chopping by a chef would have improved it; alas.

With our meal, we shared a carafe of Chardonnay, which was perfectly nice. In most circumstances, we would have had a bottle. But they start at £54 here, which is a little over the top.

The food that we had, was delicious. But we really ought to have had a look at the price ranges in the original review, or on the menu before we booked. We didn't think the value-for-money ratio worked out here. I don't think we will be back here, also because it felt a little pretentious. Marylebone has both better and more affordable places to dine in.

Soughdough with Cultured Butter
Soughdough with Cultured Butter
Cured Sardines with Cherries
Cured Sardines with Cherries
Asparagus Salad
Asparagus Salad
Poussin with Apricots
Poussin with Apricots
A Bunch of Salad Leaves
A Bunch of Salad Leaves
7-9 Paddington Street, London W1U 5QH, United Kingdom
£20 (£8-29); Mains: £44 (£14-£160); Drinks: £36 (carafe, bottles from £54)